North Minerva Reef, 427 nm to Fiji
For the past 11 days we have been anchored inside the lagoons of both South and North Minerva Reefs. These mid ocean atolls lie 20 miles apart and rise from the deep ocean, barely showing themselves at low tide. Not surprisingly they have wound up claiming their share wayward sailors over the years, but other than barnacle encrusted pieces of iron and steel here and there, little remains to document the fates of these vessels which foundered on the reef and were pounded into oblivion by the constant swells breaking on the reef’s steep edge. Interestingly, most victims of these shipwrecks survived by eventually using the wreckage to construct small boats and rafts and run off a few hundred miles downwind toward the Fiji archipelago.
Nowadays with modern charting and navigation tools the Reefs have evolved from a mid ocean hazard to a popular stopping point in the annual migration of cruising boats making the journey to and from New Zealand in the antipodal spring and back to the islands in the fall. During those times it is not uncommon to find 10 or more sailboats anchored in the lagoons, tenders zipping about, people walking on the reefs and divers taking huge crayfish from the hidden pools on the reef itself.
This is our third visit here in the past 20+ years and we have been very fortunate this time to be the only boat in both anchorages. Given that it is the middle of the austral winter when most sane people are weathering the frequent seasonal cold fronts safely at the dock in New Zealand or gallivanting about the tropical islands to the north, it is not surprising we have the place to ourselves. We are perpetually, and for the most part unsuccessfully, in search of an empty anchorage, thus for us being alone here is a dream come true. Imagine Zion or Yosemite completely empty but for you. Nature’s beauty takes main stage, and leaves one in awe.
There is not a soul within 400 miles: the dark sky at night literally takes your breath away until the waning moon rises over the horizon, and when the dawn comes there is no human evidence but us anchored in the fabled gin clear water, all of which reminds you of how this is a place of incredible natural beauty. We take each moment in awe, from dramatic thunder storms in the night, sunrises and sunsets to die for, and nights on the bow stargazing and reacquainting ourselves with these Southern sky constellations.
Of course, being alone means no one to rely on should the need arise. Our trips to the reef are made with caution, directly to windward so if the engine on the tender should fail, we can drift and row back to the safety of Dragonfly, the alternative being that 400-mile downwind trip to some remote Fiji island. But other than exercising caution when required, the isolation suits us splendidly as we go about our days.
One cannot help but be awestruck when standing on the reef at low tide, giant ocean waves breaking on the windward side, those waves trickling across the reef to create a small waterfall on the lagoon side of the reef. Our explores give us close-up glimpses at giant clams, sea urchins, magnificently fluorescent coral, starfish, sea cucumbers, and the occasional wayward fish trapped in a pool until the tide rises. Lobsters also abound here, so it is easy to imagine those shipwrecked souls of yore finding a seafood feast to sustain them.
So for now we bid farewell to Minerva and its idyllic and beautiful empty anchorage. This morning we are off to Fiji, another fantastic destination, and it will be fun to catch up with old friends, make some new ones and entertain a guest or two over the next few weeks. But always, just over the horizon, beckons the next empty anchorage.
23 39.2 S 178 53.7 W
North Minerva Reef
South Pacific Ocean
I hate it when your story telling ends.!!
I just can’t imagine what extraordinary peace you likely experience with starry nights, reefs to your self, ocean secrets revealed, wonders everywhere, including your soul mate to share it with!
So very happy for you.Thanks for the pictures. Simply Gorgeous! As well as the good news about Soph loving St Andrew’s and summer work .
Taking time to write is truly unselfish as much as the tales are mesmerizing. Thank you.
What a special treat , all to yourself !
Did you do a spot of fishing in that 11 days ? What an adventure !
What a special treat , all to yourself !
Did you do a spot of fishing in that 11 days ? What an adventure !