Otaio Bay, Urupukapuka Isl
It is hard to believe that 23 years ago we were in the midst of preparing for our first offshore adventure on Manu Kai. Back then we devoured every book we could find that was written by those who had circumnavigated, those who had decades of experience sailing offshore, and those who had catastrophic failures but lived to tell their story … (e.g. The Baileys – 117 days Adrift). We studied every scrap of mechanical, medical and provisioning advice we came across, not all of which was necessary or even valid, but how could one tell when we knew so little to start with?
Over 100,000 nautical miles have passed below our keel(s) in the intervening years, so as we prepare Dragonfly for our next phase of blue water venturing, we find ourselves cautiously confident, yet with new queries rattling our brains in the wee hours: How will she perform in huge seas? What tactic do we take in heavy weather (beyond, that is, flipping on the windshield wiper breaker)? How will her different type of motion affect us (both veterans of many a seasick battle)? And what IF … the engine fails? … the stablizers fail? … we fail? And this time, instead of books, the internet allows endless data overload as we consult youtube videos, Chat GPT, blogs, and the ever-informative “NOG” (“Nordhavn Owners Group”). Helpful, but getting stuck down rabbitholes is not a recipe for peace of mind.
These are but a few of the ideas that rattle around as we outfit Dragonfly into the vessel we want. We have done a ton of work on her in the vein of making her more fuel efficient, simplifying her rigging, and customizing the living space to our needs. No space has been untouched. For our readers who love all things boat projects, this list has included:
Replace dinghy with a lightweight roll-up and easy to service 2-stroke outboard; change the AGM house battery bank to lithium; install new flopper-stoppers with a lighter weight / more effective version; install paravanes to provide backup stabilization while underway; replace and simplify rigging as needed; replace the washer-dryer unit; replace galley faucets; re-wire the two fridges and one freezer for direct 12V connections; fine-tune AC wiring loads to minimize the boat’s AC dependency; install additional battery chargers; replace / repair non-functioning extractor fans; repair non-working VHFs, assign new IDs to communications equipment (radios, EPIRB, AIS); install cabin and berth fans throughout; sew covers for various new pieces of equipment; refine safety equipment placement and contents; service life raft; install new ships clock / barometer / hydrometer; replace all hatch and portlight screens; acquire and mount new mirage-drive kayak; and remove and sell extra or replaced gear to further “lighten her load”.
After a short but grueling couple of weeks at the marina, we threw off the docklines and started our current shakedown cruise here in the Bay of Islands. These last 4 weeks on the hook have allowed further testing of our new installations and fine-tuning the project list for Dragonfly’s pre-passage haul-out in late April. As is happening all over the globe, the weather patterns here in the South Pacific have been changing, and here in New Zealand’s fall season this has meant over 50% of the time waiting out the passage of fronts which bring heaps and heaps of rain. Last week we were aboard for 7 days waiting for the 40kt winds and deluges to subside, at one point receiving over 3 inches of rain (the usual rainfall accumulation for two months time) in less than 24 hours.
The Tasman Sea has been getting slammed with cyclonic storms. We are seeing systems last longer, reach further south, and have more intensity and frequency than we experienced the last time we were here in 2015. We take advantage of our forced inside days to tick projects off the list and test Dragonfly’s new systems and rigging. But when the weather swings to sunshine and the glorious blue skies dawn, we hop into the dinghy or kayak and get ashore to explore, catch up with friends, and further experience this beautiful corner of the world.
At present our plan is to set sail for Fiji with the first weather window after April 24th, with the idea of leaving Dragonfly in Fiji while we come back to Idaho for a few months, returning in August to cruise a bit of the islands. For now we sit with the barometer dropping again as a new low pressure system approaches, driving cold southern winds and rain our way. It’s cozy aboard Dragonfly!
35 12.8 S 174 13.4 E
Urupukapuka Island
Bay of Islands, New Zealand
Truly amazing! I look forward to following your adventures. Be safe, be well and be great out there!
Hey, I had that exact same magnetic spice rack thing in my kitchen! (Which was about the same size as yours … but not on a boat, lol.
Looks fantastic as usual and good to know you’re still keeping yourselves busy.
Please put me back in the will
Thank you for the update and the great pics! You two are amazing! Plus, you have a very funny daughter! 😊🤣